I'm Your Personal Tailor* - Ottobre Design Peacoat

*Some exclusions apply. Are you related to me and plying me with fabric gift certificates? If not then you're probably excluded. Unless you are a photogenic toy frog, he is excluded from exclusions.

My sister does meet all the above criteria which entitles her to coats.

Here's the back story on this coat - My sister is always spoiling me with lovely gifts, so I asked her if there was something she's like me to make her.  She sent me a picture of a RTW peacoat with a faux fur collar and said, "How about this?"  I went through the pattern stash and darn if I didn't have a pattern almost the same in an issue of Ottobre Design women. I picked some pretty wool and lining from my stash, bought some faux fur and made her a coat for Christmas.

Sounds great right?  Well I forgot to mention that this conversation took place in 2012.  Worst personal tailor ever, I'll never make it in this business. At least my sister is doing better than my husband, who asked for a jacket in 2009 and still doesn't have one.  And no he has not forgotten. Perhaps he should ply me with fabric gift certificates for favored sewing queue status.

Pattern
Nanette Peacoat from Ottobre Design Woman 5/2010.

Fabrics used
Wool flannel coating from Gorgeous fabrics - this color "Heathered Smoke" was purchased in Dec 2012, so it is now sold out.  The good news is that there are other colors of this coating still available. It's wonderful quality wool at a reasonable price, especially at 60" widths.  In my opinion it's also the perfect winter coat weight. Thick enough for colder climates, but not a nightmare to sew on your home machine. I might have purchased 3 yards of it in red this December.

Faux fur "Siberian husky" collar from Fabric Empire on Etsy.  This was my first time purchasing from this source and I was very pleased.  The faux fur is excellent quality, similar to $50+ a yard furs, but at $34 a yard. Their shipping was also lighting fast. I had a fluffy package on my doorstep in 3 days even though they are based in California.

Rayon leopard print lining - This was also from Gorgeous Fabrics in the year 2012.  It's long gone except for the stockpile in my closet. So put that on your "to burgle" list.

Pattern changes/alterations
OMG people, my sister is so easy to fit. I think she made a deal with the devil to be almost a perfect fit model.  I hear her yelling in the background, "But I have short legs!" Shhhhh Shhhhh, you got two good knees to wear 4" heels to get around that.  The devil deal still stands.

1. Blended sizes 38/40 because being a bit pear shaped is in our genes.

2. I assumed she would also need a 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment and put it into the muslin. She did so I went back and adjusted the sleeve the same amount for the real coat.

3. The muslin showed that my sister is also narrow in the small of her back.  She needed 1/2" taken out of the princess seams right at the waist seam. I blended this out to nothing before reaching the upper back.

4. Shortened the sleeves around 4" because my sister is petite and likes to show off her bracelets.

5.  Added 1 3/8" of length to the coat. My fitting muslin did not have the hem turned up and I liked the proportion of the coat with the extra length.

That was all the fitting changes, no moving waists, doing sway back adjustments and FBAing. It was blissful.

One other note - The pattern is not drafted to have contrast fur collar, but it is very easy to modify for one.  The roll line is well marked on the facing. I cut the pattern apart on this line and added seam allowance to each side.  The lower part was cut in wool, the upper in faux fur. Cut the upper collar in faux fur and sew as instructed.

Confessions/Advice
On the whole I found this pattern to be beautifully drafted and the majority of it was a delight to sew.  I only have two issues.

1. The collar stand/collar seam has a really tight curve.  I'm used to a flatter curve, much like what is on a button down shirt collar.  Don't even try to sew this at a 5/8" seam allowance cause that mother clucker will not fit.  Trim down the SA to 3/8", or if your daring like me 1/4", and the two pieces fit just fine.

2. The pattern does not come with a back facing pattern.  I drafted one and adjusted the back lining to fit the new piece. 

Tips for cutting faux fur
When cutting your faux fur you want minimize the amount of fur cut off a the edge of the piece.  Here are my steps with some semi dark photos. Such is the hazards of middle of the night sewing.
1. Trace the pattern on the back of the fur.

2. Cut a small hole on the pattern edge with a razor blade, just big enough to get your shears through.

3. Then take the shears and very slowly cut trying to just catch the backing with the blade.

Here you can see the cut out piece. 

Of course always remember to pick the fur out of the seams when you're finished sewing. My choice instrument for this is the large blunt needles used for seaming knitting.

Husband Comment
"Do you make that? Why does it have extra buttons."  Then I explained that a pea coat is double breasted and double breasted styles always have extra buttons for visual balance. "But those buttons aren't functional, you should just take them off."  At which point I might have mimed choking him.  Otherwise he thought the coat was great.

My Final Thoughts

Guys, I love this pattern.  I whole heartedly agree with Ottobre that it's a feminine take on the the classic peacoat.  But not too frou frou flouncy feminine, just right. It's staying in my sewing queue to make for ME!  Confession - I'll probably procrastinate another year before making another one.  See you in 2015 new coat.