I'm pretty pleased with the body but have some issues with the collar. Instead of being being drafted like a standard all in one collar, the upper collar and facing are attached. I feel this shortcut keeps the collar from folding over nicely. It also limits how low you can button the blouse before the facings start flipping out. If you like the period appropriate button placement then this wouldn't be an issue, but for me it is. (I'll be discussing this further in a sewing notes post.)
Simplicity 2195 (This one seems to be easy to get your hands on.)
Vintage flocked cotton that was probably also a polyester blend. It has a stink that is only now fading. Sneaky cherries.
1. Dropped bust dart 1 1/2".
2. Shaved off 1/4" at the top of the side seam and added the same amount in the hip area.
3. It felt like the pattern was drafted for a longer torso, but I didn't want to shorten the length. Instead I moved the top of the tucks up 3/4".
4. Turned the back tuck into a fish eye dart.
5. Made a 1" sway back adjustment.
6. Made a 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment to the sleeve cap.
7. The pattern does not have a shoulder seam so my usual 1/2" wide upper back and forward shoulder adjustment had to be done creatively. Usually I would add the extra width to the lower part of the back and then put a dart in the shoulder seam of the back yoke.
- I checked the suggested buttonhole placement before sewing them and decided the placement was great. After the garment was completed I changed my tune and wished that the buttons had been shifted lower.
- Pattern is only drafted to have 3 buttons, I added some extra on the lower portion of the blouse.
"I like it. I like the apples, the pairs of apples." - They're cherries, are we talking about the same thing?
My Final Thoughts
I think this pattern has good bones, but that it needs further modifications before it matches my preferences. Having the collar and facing as one unit doesn't work for me. It doesn't fold the way a collar with a seam does and the facing want to flip out. I also have an issue with wearing tucks. In theory they are fine, but on my body I'd rather have a fish eye dart. All these issues are easily fixable on the pattern. I should go back and tweak it and make another version. In conclusion, decent first attempt but needs a little more work. Hey don't we all. ;)