Cherry Picking Shirt

4.13.2015

Is there a type of garment that you always buy patterns for? Even though you know that the stash doesn't need another. You might resit for a few minutes but a new pattern finds it's way home with you in the end. I'm like that with button down shirts. The variations between them are usually small but I love them just the same.
I also love bitchy looking fashion illustrations, so it's no wonder that Simplicity 2195 was recently added to the pattern collection. These girls are like, "Sew? We don't sew, we have people sew for us and bring us drinks. And we don't eat cake...ever. *With judgmental stare at my waistline.*"Ha haa haa! You judgy snitches are a  riot, excuse me while I finish my cake.
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Not too much to report on the fitting and sewing process on this one. My fitting process on button down shirts works for most patterns and this one was no exception.  (All the fitting details are in the normal spot below.) I will mention that the ease in the bust looks just fine with sleeves on, but wouldn't work for the sleeveless version.  There would be way too much armhole gapping without any adjustments.
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With the sleeves on the shirt has an area appropriate blousey feel without being oversized. I did feel the back had a little too much fullness and converted the tucks into fish eye darts to take some out.
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I'm pretty pleased with the body but have some issues with the collar.  Instead of being being drafted like a standard all in one collar, the upper collar and facing are attached. I feel this shortcut keeps the collar from folding over nicely. It also limits how low you can button the blouse before the facings start flipping out.  If you like the period appropriate button placement then this wouldn't be an issue, but for me it is. (I'll be discussing this further in a sewing notes post.) 

Pattern
Simplicity 2195 (This one seems to be easy to get your hands on.)

Fabrics used
Vintage flocked cotton that was probably also a polyester blend. It has a stink that is only now fading. Sneaky cherries.
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Pattern changes/alterations
1. Dropped bust dart 1 1/2".

2. Shaved off 1/4" at the top of the side seam and added the same amount in the hip area.

3. It felt like the pattern was drafted for a longer torso, but I didn't want to shorten the length. Instead I moved the top of the tucks up 3/4".

4. Turned the back tuck into a fish eye dart.

5.  Made a 1" sway back adjustment.

6. Made a 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment to the sleeve cap.

7. The pattern does not have a shoulder seam so my usual 1/2" wide upper back and forward shoulder adjustment had to be done creatively.  Usually I would add the extra width to the lower part of the back and then put a dart in the shoulder seam of the back yoke.
This pattern not having a shoulder seam is messing up my wide back/forward shoulder adjustments. Going to give this try first. If that doesn't work I'll break the yoke into two pieces. #simplicity2195
Here's a picture of my adjustment before the excess areas were cut off. The lower part of the back was adjusted like normal.  Then I slashed and spread the entire yoke 1/2", so that the two back seams matched.  On the front of the yoke I took off 1/2" at the shoulder edge so that those seams would match.  For the forward shoulder adjustment I moved the yoke seam line forward and reduced the front as normal.  The shoulder line mark on the pattern also needs to be moved 1/2" forward but that's not shown here.

Confessions/Advice
- I checked the suggested buttonhole placement before sewing them and decided the placement was great. After the garment was completed I changed my tune and wished that the buttons had been shifted lower.

- Pattern is only drafted to have 3 buttons, I added some extra on the lower portion of the blouse.

Husband Comment
"I like it. I like the apples, the pairs of apples." - They're cherries, are we talking about the same thing?

My Final Thoughts
I think this pattern has good bones, but that it needs further modifications before it matches my preferences. Having the collar and facing as one unit doesn't work for me. It doesn't fold the way a collar with a seam does and the facing want to flip out. I also have an issue with wearing tucks. In theory they are fine, but on my body I'd rather have a fish eye dart. All these issues are easily fixable on the pattern. I should go back and tweak it and make another version. In conclusion, decent first attempt but needs a little more work. Hey don't we all. ;)
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28 comments:

  1. so cute! and your flicky eyeliner is awesome!

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  2. You floozy undoing that top button hahaha. It's super cute. I struggle with back tucks... front tucks look fine but back tucks? Make me look like the lovechild of a linebacker and quasimodo.

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  3. www.tresbienensemble.comApril 13, 2015 at 11:35 AM

    Well, "How do you like them apples". :-D HAHA. His comments crack me up. I don't have a particular type of garment that I constantly buy patterns for, but I can't resist a pattern that has some new detail I haven't seen before. I love vintage patterns for that reason in particular!

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  4. This shirt is so cute, great job. Hey could you email me? girlsinthegarden@gmail.com I have a question to ask you.

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  5. This shirt is gorgeous and you wear it so well. I, too, am a connoisseur of button-up shirts and bitchy pattern sketches. Have you seen McCall's Pattern Behaviour on Tumblr? It captions vintage patterns with sufficient snark. http://mccallspatternbehavior.tumblr.com/

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  6. Delightful, as always! i like the length of the sleeve, and how nicely it lines up with the waistband of your skirt. Pleasing. Also, the perfect transitional length as we ease into summer and the Official Fruit-Themed Season. (Um, wanna host a fruit themed sewing? DO IT!!!!)

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  7. Gosh it's lovely! I love the shape of that collar, annoying that it doesn't sit right. You'll definitely have to make a bunch more to perfect it. Probably you'll need to buy some more fabric for that, right?? ;P

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  8. Love the print for a shirt, it's soooo cute!
    Hehe, I always purchase vintage (and some not so vintage) jumperskit patterns... I have not sewn a single one yet but I always end purchasing them!

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  9. I own this pattern but I think the size I have is too large for me. I'm glad that I could see your version though. It looks lovely but I agree that some adjustments need to be done.

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  10. This is a very beautiful shirt ! I love the little cherries.
    By the way, I wanted to thank you because you always take time to answer the comments on Instagram !

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  11. This looks adorable on you, Cherry Princess!

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  12. So pretty! Your husband's comment is priceless, as usual. And you are not the only one with a knack for collecting wayward vintage button-up patterns--trust me. (2 more are winging their way to my house right now...O_o)

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  13. Seriously, you can never have enough button up shirts, so how can you have enough patterns? Must have all the patterns! And who can resist snooty ladies! This shirt looks fantastic, and I really like the cherry print too. My husband would so say something like that - apples? Really? Ha ha ha!

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  14. Thanks Jo. The eyeliner was in my favor that day. :)

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  15. Thanks Sandra. I have a joke that my husband is actually an alien. Would explain why he thinks cherries are apples. :)

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  16. HAA HAAA! Thems apples are cherries man.
    It is hard to say no to any pattern that has an eye catching detail. Especially if it's vintage and you might not be able to get one again.

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  17. Thank you Lori and thanks for the box of patterns heading it way to me now. :)

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  18. Thanks Siobhan. :) I LOVE THAT TUMBLER and somehow forgot to bookmark it last time. I'm currently looking at it and laughing while my husband says, "Why is that funny."

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  19. Thank you Gillian. :) I'm always a little uncertain about this sleeve length. Glad to hear that you like it.


    Mmmm fruit themed sew-a-long, sooo tasty.

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  20. Thank you Sonja. Now if only the cherry princess had bowls of cherries at her finger tips. NOM NOM NOM!

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  21. Sounds like we should just call ourselves "a home for wayward patterns." Someone has to house all those poor souls. :)

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  22. High Five Heather because There Are NEVER Enough Button Down Shirts!!!


    Sounds like our husband are from the same alien planet. Maybe their apples look like cherries there. :)

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  23. Thanks Elena. If it's only one size too large you could grade it down a bit. If you're in the mood for a challenge. :)


    Rosie Wednesday also made this pattern if you'd like to see it on another body.

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  24. Thank you Mayumi.
    Sounds like you need to put one of those vintage patterns on your sewing list. :) Or just hoard them gleefully. I'm also cool with that. Hee hee.

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  25. Haa haa! Yes, yes, "twist my arm" to buy more fabric. OK fine, my curser way hoovering over a buy button anyway. :)

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  26. Thank you Sunalee. :) There are no garment sewers in my area so it's fun to talk to people this way. Though I'm a little more timely on instagram.

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  27. Love them apples! So cute as always Heather!

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  28. Thank you Margo. This fabric did demand to be used in a shirt. How could I say no? :)

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