Lisa Comfort decided to design a pattern inspired by the show. When it was posted on the Sew Over It instagram feed last year I was sobbing lightly after reading it was only available in a class. But I wants the precious and I don't live in the UK. *Sniff, sniff* Thankfully all I had to do was wait and now the pattern is available as a PDF for those of us who reside across the pond.
Things I liked about the pattern as drafted
- The back neckline is finished with bias binding that is slip stitched down. This gives you a pretty clean edge that won't flip out like a facing would.
- The sleeve caps have just the right amount of ease. Just a little for movement, but not so much that you have problems setting the sleeves pucker free. I'm also like the width of the sleeve itself. Feel like it would have been easy to stray into 80's puffy sleeve land, but these perfect.
Things I didn't like as drafted
- If you make this blouse as instructed then the sleeve slit is part of the underarm seam. When scanning the directions I saw this and said NOPE. On the good side it will take you all of 10 minutes to move the pleat, add a slit and draft a piece of continuous binding. (Steps for this are under the Confessions/Advice section.)
Things I changed just because I'm picky about clothing in a way that drove my mother crazy when it was her job to clothe me.
- Instead of gathering the shoulders I turned that area into pleats. It's more of a 40's look which appeals to me, but might not appeal to everyone.
Sew Over It's Anderson Blouse
Double silk georgette (This was purchased from Tessuti fabrics years and years ago. Sorry because I know a lot of you like it.)
1. Standard 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment to the sleeve and shoulder.
2. Took the shoulder width in 1/4".
3. Changed the side seam from a straight line to a curved one to remove a bit of the ease at the waist. Removed around 1/2" on the quarter for 2" of ease removed at the waist through the entire garment
4. Changed the gathers to pleats.
5. Redrafted the sleeve to be a standard shirtmakers sleeve with a continuous bias binding.
6. Increased width of the cuff to a finished width of 2 1/4".
7. Sleeve length was reduced 1" since I'd increased the size of the cuff.
- The sleeve redraft is super simple because the only thing missing is the cut line to make the slit. I converted one side of the pleat to the cut line and moved the pleat.
1. The left side of the pleat will be converted to the slash line so first we will move the pleat to the right. Measure out the 1 1/4" from the right pleat mark.
2. Cross out the old pleat fold marking and draw in an arrow over the new pleat location.
3. Go back to the leftmost mark and extent to up to the length you want the sleeve slit to be. Mine is 2 1/2" finished. (So 2 1/2" plus the 5/8" seam allowance for the cuff, 3 1/4 total.)
4. Last step is to draft a rectangle to be the bias binding for the slit. The rectangle should be twice as long as your slit length plus seam allowance. Mine is 6 1/2" line. The width depends on what seam allowance you will use to attach the piece and how wide you want the finished binding to look. I sew sleeve bindings on with a 1/4" SA and like them to be around 1/4" finished. My binding piece is drafted to be 1 1/2" wide.
- I was a dum dum and transferred one of my slit markings incorrectly to the cutting paper. Didn't notice it until I'd cut the slit in the fabric and tried to sew the binding on. So on this blouse the sleeve slits are 3 1/2" instead of the drafted 2 1/2".
- In my humble opinion this is not a blouse to wear untucked. Here's my photographic evidence. Having it tucked into a fitted bottom makes all that ease look good. Hanging on it own....not so much. Tucked in though, it's sooo good.
- Want to convert the gathered area on the shoulder to pleats like I did? Here's a look at my pattern.
- I used the old stiffen it with gelatin trick on this double georgette and had a very pleasant sewing experience. Here's a link to the Threads article which explained it to me.
"Ooooh, blousey. That's a cool fabric."
My Final Thoughts
Even with my anal retentive tweaking this project sewed up really fast. It took me only a week even with the time suck of cutting silk between paper. Speaking of silk, this is the perfect pattern for using some of those long stashed lengths in the stash. I'm thrilled how great this almost 5 year old georgette looks sewn up and how the blouse pairs with my collection of pencil skirts. I'm pretty sure another Anderson blouse is in my future.