Warning - this post is only going to appeal to some of you. If underarm gussets are something you're never gonna sew, then mark this post as read and we'll talk fun things later. Fun things like cake, or Froggie, or eating cake with Froggie.
OK then, I'm assuming that those of you who have stuck around are wild about gussets. After all having a better range of motion in a kimono sleeve is something to smile about.
The book I ended up using was Gertie's original text "Gertie's new book for better sewing." Her steps included using silk organza to reinforce the seam. I had silk organza, gussets and a camera, so I took some pictures of the process. I'm not inventing anything here, just providing a pictorial overview of the steps. As a visual learner I though it might be helpful to others who learn the same way.
Sewing Gussets with Silk Organza
For reference - My pictures correspond with steps 5 and 6 of the Wiggle Dress pattern.
Step 1. Mark the gusset stitch and slash lines on your bodice. Note -You'll be sewing the silk organza to the right side of the fabric. 90% of the time you'll be transferring the sewing lines onto the right side of the fabric as well. On my project I ended up putting my marks on the wrong side because of the black background. (My chalk was hiding that day.)
Step 2. Cut out a piece of silk organza that is a bit larger than the gusset area. Pin it over the marked lines on the right side of the fabric.
Step 3. With a small stitch, stitch directly on top of the marked stitch lines.
Step 4. Slash on the slash line up to the tip of the stitching.
Step 5. On the right side, fold the silk organza towards the slash and press.
Step 6. Draw in the seam allowance on the gusset piece
Step 7. Pin the gusset to the bodice, matching the drawn in stitch line on the gusset with the stitched line on the bodice,
Step 8. Stitch the two pieces together by stitching directly on top of the line stitched in Step 3. Try to keep any wrinkles from getting under the needle while pivoting at the tip of the gusset.
Step 9. If the gusset is pucker free than press it with the seam allowances out like this.
Step 10. Flip the bodice to the right side and edge stitch around the gusset seam.
Step 11. Turn the bodice back to the wrong side and trim the silk organza a little smaller than the seam allowance.
The finished gusset will look like this on the wrong and right sides.