Lillestoff has been my "screw it I'm going to splurge" fabric of choice since about 2011. At first my purchases were small, only getting a yard at a time to make things for Desmond. Eventually the "kid yardage" started to migrate into the "fabric for myself" pile and I now have my own Lillestoff PJ pants, bodysuits, and T-shirts. Hey moms should have nice things too....and I'm a greedy fabric hog.
Lillestoff was very generous and sent me a GIANT box of fabric. Des and I might have opened it and then flung fabric around while manically laughing. "We're high on cotton and we didn't even know it was possible!" Once we stopped sniffing the new fabric fumes, things calmed down a bit and I started to brainstorm what fabrics to sew up first. Out of all the prints the "Black Rose" jersey was screaming my name the loudest so it got the thumbs up. (Bright colored roses on black = Heather bait....if you're ever looking to trap me for your own personal baking slave.) Selecting a pattern took a little longer because I was looking for a knit dress that I hadn't blogged about a million times already. (Those would be all of Kitshycoo's patterns which are always my go to dresses.) The pattern winner turned out to be Vogue 1027, a dress I've made before but never blogged.
I would have loved to simply trace a smaller size of the bodice, but in 2009 I'd made the smallest size in the 14-22 size nest. Never fear though because it easy to do a little DIY grading using the nested sizes. (I blogged about this technique here. To grade down you reverse the process.) I graded down the width of the bodice, but left the length at the size 14 measurements. This removed about an 1" of ease at the side seams and about 1/2" around the armholes. At this point I mocked up a new bodice and decided to remove an additional 1/2"(on the quarter) at the waistline. The skirt and belt pieces were adjusted to fit the new waist measurement, details in the review portion, and the length of the skirt was shortened two inches.
Vogue 1027 - DKNY faux wrap dress (Might be OOP by now)
Lillestoff cotton/spandex jersey in the "Black Rose" print.
1. The size 14 bodice was graded down one size in width, but the length was left alone.
2. An additional 1/2" was removed at the waist area on the bodice. Finished dress had 4" of ease removed from the waist area.
3. On the skirt I removed 1" from the side seams and reduced the length by 2".
4. The two belt pieces were reduced by 1" so that they would match the new waist circumference.
5. The front belt edges were serged together to eliminate the white back from showing through.
6. The pockets were omitted because there was not enough yardage. (Confession - I wouldn't use knit pockets either)
- That waist seam has a lot of layers thanks to the sewn in belt. On my version I basted each layer with a large zig zag stitch to keep all 4 layers aligned. Then the seam was finished with the overlocker and the basting removed.
- Since Lillestoff cotton is less drapy than rayon, the facing trick did get rid of most of the gaping. If I were to do it again in rayon, I'd reduce the length of the bodice fronts as well.
- I'm not completely sold on the sewn on belt. At some angles it looks good, in others it looks bulky.
My Final Thoughts
After all the pattern edits were done, sewing up this dress was easy peasy. None of the construction steps are difficult and Lillestoff cotton doesn't fight you as it goes through the serger. Instead it wants to be sewn, and worn, and fondled....um maybe I should stop there. *Goes and sniffs fabric in a corner.*
This was a bit more fitting work than I'd usually want to put into a knit pattern, but for some reason that didn't bother me too much this time. It helped that I'd purchased the pattern so long ago that it just felt like being thrifty at this point. Now that I have a version that actually fits, I'm very pleased with the pattern. The style lines are classy and work well with my body type. I also think it pairs every elegantly with the black rose pattern making me look dressed up when really I'm thinking, "Ahhhh secret pajamas."