After all the drama of cutting out this project the rest of it went pretty smoothly. I did need to thread trace all the buttonhole and pocket placement lines because no marker/chalk/wax showed up on this fabric. Thread tracing was a bit annoying, but it turned out to be good TV watching project. That must have given me the hand sewing bug because it suddenly sewn in interfacing seemed like a great idea! I got out the lightweight horsehair interfacing and and hand sewed it all into the body of the coat 1940's style. Yeah, I don't know what came over me either. After that it was mostly straightforward machine sewing, with the exception of the hems. I did hand sew them up with some rayon seam tape like the instructions suggested. The final bit of drama was the buttonholes. Now my Bernina is an absolute trooper with buttonholes when compared to my last sewing machine. This wool/mohair blend was just a bit more than it could handle, soo sooo squishy. During the 4 hour buttonhole sewing process I was pretty jealous the NY girls who can pay someone to put buttonholes in using an industrial machine. NY ladies, that is money well spent. Saves you from having to use every screaming/crying emoji on your iPad and inhaling so much mohair fluff that you feel like you've been licking goats. I'm sure someone enjoys licking goats as recreation, but I'll pass.
Veronica - 1940's Coat from Wearing History. I sewed View 2.
Wool/mohair coating from the stash.
Warm coat lining from Emmaonesock.com
1. 1/2" Forward shoulder alteration to the shoulder and sleeve.
2. I added a 1" pleat to the CB of the lining.
- This is a large PDF pattern. Those of you who feel like PDF patterns are puzzles to put together will be fine with it. There's a printed version available for those of you who think PDF patterns are the work of the devil.
- When you look at the pattern sheet you'll see that there is an modified sleeve cap option towards the top. WH explains that as drafted the sleeve is much puffier than what the fashion illustration shows. They provide the smaller cap that can be swapped and give you the flatter look of the illustration. If you want to be 100% authentic you can trace the sleeve as is and use the original sleeve cap. For my coat I used the modified sleeve cap with the shorter sleeve head.
- I prefer to have some waist definition in my coats, which is why I went with the belted view 2. Some of you don't have the same tastes so I took an unbelted photo just for you.
- I did forget about that 3/4" SA on the lining and sewed the whole thing at 1/2". Happily the thickness of the wool meant it fit perfectly at that size.
- The lapel buttonhole was left off because I like wearing my collars open. Also because I couldn't face trying to sew another buttonhole and my child had heard enough profanity for the day.
My Final Thoughts
I've been thanking my lucky stars that this plaid coating wasn't completely destroyed by whatever stealthily munching bugs were involved. It would have been a crime against old man winter....or maybe just would have reduced me to eating half a pan of brownies in one sitting. Either way not a good scene.
So far Veronica is in heavy rotation with my blue Butterick 5824 and I like having a shorter coat length option in the mix. The big patch pockets are really handy for keys, gloves and about 8 rocks that your kid picked up on the way home from school. He even said, "Ooooo these pockets are so big," as he stuffed a rock into them. Oh and I got to buy a new hat to go with this so winning all around. So with that I'm off to play a dame lurking the shadows in some Film Noir. My pocket full of rocks should come in handy.