The Brasilia Dress Part 3 - The Finished Dress

11.16.2013

It's the moment you've all been waiting for, the unveiling of my finished Brasilia dress! After the picture parade I'll go into some sewing tips for the inset and how I chose to finish the neckline and armholes.  Now with out any further ado, drum roll please, The Brasilia Dress!

Front view complete with disinterested model face
Brasilia Dress Front View
Back View, hey that did need a sway back adjustment. Don't fight it future Heather.
Brasilia Dress Back View
One full view pic that I squeezed out in the corner of my dining room. It was 45 degrees outside, not exactly sleeveless sheath weather. The red pumps don't care what temperature it is, they're always ready to play.
Brasilia Dress Full view
It was up to the individual sewcialist to decide how to finish the neck and arm edges.  I decided to draft an all in one facing by tracing the front and back pieces. Never mind the seam at the CF, that's due to a last minute alteration on the neckline.
Brasilia Dress all in one facing
All in one facings are a bit of a pain to sew, but having one piece keeps the armhole facings flipping out. I also like how it gives a nice look to the back of the dress when it's on a hanger.
Brasilia Dress Front Detail
You could also use a bias binding or contrast binding for the neckline/armhole finish.  It's all up to you!

The majority of the Brasilia dress is very easy sewing, darts and straight seams. Inserting the side inset is the one area that is a bit tricky, so here are my tips for getting a nice sharp point.
Brasilia Dress inset
1. If you're fabric is delicate or prone to raveling then first reinforce the point area with a small square of interfacing on both pieces.  My cotton pique was pretty sturdy so I've this skipped this step in my photos.

2. Use a disappearing marker or chalk to pencil in the seam allowance at the point area.
Marking my points. #brasiliadress
3. Clip the fabric on both pieces a within an 1/8" of the seam line you just drew in.

4. Pin both pieces together right on the marked in point. Just pierce it with a pin.

5. When you sew the pieces together pivot right on the marked in point. The clips you put in the seam allowance will allow you to turn the point without a big pucker. Here's a view of the back of the seam after sewing.  The clip the fabric also helps the SA to lay nice and flat after a pressing.
@charityshopchic I pulled up the edge to show my clip on the point back. #brasiliadress
6. Give it a good press and you should have a nice sharp point.

That my friends is my Brasilia dress.  I had a great time sewing this pattern and I know you will too come December.  Now back to the Christmas sewing Heather, chop chop!
Brasilia Dress Alt Front 2
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