teacups dress post that the Emery bodice was used as a base for this draft. I chose Emery because the bodice very close to a bodice sloper. You could use any bodice pattern that is similar. It should have a waist and side seam darts on the front, a waist dart on the back and have a neckline on the shallow side. Colette's Peony would be another good example, as would be the Big 4's fitting shell patterns. In this tutorial I will be using a copy of the Emery bodice with all seam allowances removed. I highly recommend doing this for two reasons. One, you don't have to remember what edges already have seam allowance and what edges need it added. Two, there is no confusion when marking measurements, they all fall on the seam line. I know some of you hate adding seam allowance to patterns, but in this case it will make your life a lot simpler. OK, besides a traced copy of your bodice you'll need, scissors, tape, pen/pencil, a straight ruler, a french curve and if you have one a hip curve.
1. Unless your bodice was drafted to be sleeveless you'll need to raise the armhole. Since no sleeve will be attached you need less ease and most of us prefer having bra coverage. On Emery I raised the armhole 5/8" and redrew the armhole with my french curve.
4. Let's get the new neckline drawn in before chopping up the bodice further. I'll be using a hip curve to draw the neckline and the style lines. This ruler has a very shallow curve to it, which allows me to give the seams a slight curve. If using a french curve, use the flatter tail end and you may need to reposition it to draw the entire line. OK, back the neckline, using your straight ruler mark how far down you want it to be on the CF. The depth of the V is a matter of personal choice, mine was about 4.5" down from the original neckline. Use the hip curve/french curve to draw a new neckline from the CF mark up to inside edge of the strap.
1. The back bodice draft is very similar to the front but we'll go through it step by step. Start by raising the back armhole the same amount as the front, 5/8" in my example.
If using Emery just start with this step. Measure 2" from the neckline side and draw a new armhole edge.
3. Since our design has a back V-neck we are going to cut off the back neckline dart instead of rotating it anywhere. On the CB make a mark where you would like the point of the V neck to land. I put mine at 6.5" down from the original neckline. Use the hip curve/french curve to draw the new neckline.
4. Next we are going to draw in the upper seam line on the back bodice. Grab the upper front piece of the bodice and lay it on top of the back. Make a mark on the back armhole so that the seam line is drawn in the same location as the front.
Take the hip curve, put it on the armhole mark and on the tip of the back dart. Like on the front you want to keep it as close to parallel to the neckline as possible. Draw the new seam line in and add any notches if you want them.
5. Time to close the back waist dart. Cut the dart along the dart leg all the way up to the seam line cut.
6. Now that the dart is closed we can draw the final seam line. The two lower seam lines need to meet in the same location on the side seam. Make a mark on the back side seam in the same location as you did on the front. For my example that is 1".