The patterns spanned from the 40's through to the 70's and I had a good time looking at style changes and picking out my favorites. Not surprisingly most of my picks were 50's area designs and I decided to bump one of them to the top of the sewing queue. Let me present Simplicity 2086, View 3. (You can see the original pattern illustration below in the review area.)
Christmas dress post for more details on this type of grading if you're interested.)
Vintage Simplicity 2086. Here it is in all of it's original fashion illustration glory. "Judy" is busy calling people on her shell phone.
Vintage cotton print from Etsy.
(Made after grading)
1. Dropped bust dart 1.5".
2. The side seams needed to be rebalanced to fit me. The top part of the blouse was taken in 1/2" and the bottom area was graded out 3/4" at the hem.
- The pattern suggested using a separating zipper for the closure. I decided to go with an invisible zip instead.
- The other sewing change made was to attach the back straps by sewing them into the facing/body seam. The vintage directions said to hand stitch them into the facing.
- I catch stitched all the facings down so they wouldn't flip out. The busy print helps to hide the thread "picks" on the right hand side.
- There was a lot of interest in this pattern and since making a ton of copies isn't something that's easy for me to do, I'm going to show you the pattern pieces. I hope this will hope those of you with drafting skills come up with something similar.
The front bodice has a waist seam, a CF seam, and the front half of the strap. During construction you would sew the CF seam up to the dot and then leave the strap area to be sewn to the facing. The facing is also the back part of the strap. It finished both the upper edge of the front and the two strap edges.
The back does not have a waist seam, it's a standard sleeveless block with a fish eye dart. It also has a facing to finish the upper edge. There is a strap back piece that sews to the front strap at the shoulder. This piece is cut 4 times to completely finish the edges of the strap.
"I like it. Great shoulder exposure and looks good from all angles."
My Final Thoughts
Dear Simplicity, please re-release this pattern so that all my friends can have one. I'm pretty sure you'd sell a lot of copies. The design is classy, comfortable to wear and bonus, quick to sew up. I'd high recommend it if you can get your hands on a copy. Thank you so much Lori for sending me one!