McCall's 3242 - The Pendleton Jacket Knock Off


Last year I feel deeply in love with the Pendleton 49er jacket.  At first I was all, "Oooo look at me, embracing boxy plaid garments. How shocking!"  Then I slowly remembered that my mother had a closet full of 90's style Pendleton suits with plaid jackets and matching kilt style skirts. These were in the hall closet that also held all the family photo albums.  Sometimes you'd tunnel yourself in there to get out the pictures but also to sniff the wool/cedar blocks. (Unrepentant wool sniffer since my early years.) Sooo yes, we all become our parents eventually, but with slight variations. :)  Also I wish I had a closet to fill with just wool and cedar for my boy to sniff.......Digression finished.

After buying my first 49er jacket I discovered a bunch of other great things about the garment.

1. Giant patch pockets you can throw just about anything in. Phones, kids toys, pens, measuring tapes, snacks, your toy frog eating the snacks, etc.

2.  The roomy fit lets you put all manner of shirts underneath.  Well maybe nothing bulky around the wrist area but I can work around that. Three quarter sleeves anyone?

3. Plaid fabric helps hide food stains if you happen to be a be one of those people who's hands randomly release things without your brain's instruction. (I am one of those people.)

4. Wool fabric does it's job of being a great insulator without making you feel overly sweaty.

5. Boxy fit goes great with swing pants and man-ish shoes making it a practical work outfit. (Pants are the Living History Smooth Sailing Trousers once again)
Basically the 49er jacket is exactly the kind of layering garment I want in my life right now.  However the thought to make my own didn't cross my mind until my father gifted me 3 yards of plaid wool for Christmas. Should I try to copy one of my vintage Pendleton jackets or was there a vintage pattern out there that was similar?  To the Internets, the power of Google compels you!

Googling "vintage Pendleton pattern" took me to some long dead message board where several vintage pattern numbers were suggested. I had Froggie write them down for me and then we surfed on over to Etsy to see what was available.  Low and behold Etsy had most of the patterns mentioned and McCall's 3242 was perfect!
Perfect doesn't really describe it because McCall's 3242 is an exact copy of the Pendleton 49er jacket. Shoulder pleat in the same place? Yes.  Back yoke gathers? Yes.  Collar has same curved shape on the outer edge? Yes again!  Obviously someone in charge at McCall's thought this design was popular enough to copy for the sewing public. I thank you sir or madam for doing all the work for me.

Construction was easy pleesy since the style is basically a cross between a jacket and collared shirt. Well as easy as plaid matching can be.  My walking foot does help a bunch to keep everything matched up after it's been pinned. The only construction details I changed was tweaking the pocket placement, flat felling the side seams/under arms and serging the armhole seams at the finish.  At the end you get a very pretty inside where the only exposed seams are the armholes.  Nothing like a pretty inside to make you feel accomplished.

McCall's 3242

Fabrics used
Light weight plaid wool that was a gift.

Pattern changes/alterations
1.Standard forward shoulder adjustment to the shoulder seam and sleeve
2. Reduced with of cuff by .5".
3. Took in side seams about an inch.
4. Lengthened sleeves .5".
5. Reduced the width of the pockets .5".

-The fit came out a bit roomier than I'd wanted.  Probably need to grade the entire pattern down one size for the fit to be similar to my vintage jackets.

-The color in the plaid are probably a little too 60's for regular wear.  I do like that kelly green though.

Husband Comment
"You finally made something with decent pockets. Good job."

Bonus son comment, "That doesn't look to good.  I mean you look good, but that jacket doesn't." (I'm still laughing about this.)

My Final Thoughts
McCall's 3242 is a excellent copy of the Pendleton 49er style. As with our modern Big 4 patterns I think it comes with a little more ease than I'd like.  Mind you I muslined the whole thing up and decided the ease was fine, so I have no one but myself to blame.  I'd like to give this pattern another go with a heavier wool plaid after grading it down a bit. That should give me the exact fit I'm looking for.

Long story short, Excellent pattern but check your sizing. And with that I'll leave you with an action shot.
See you next time with the exact opposite of this jacket.  Fitted, Floral and Floucey, Oh my!
Proudly designed by Mlekoshi pixel perfect web designs