Red Roses Dress - Elisalex/Simplicity 2444 Mash-Up

10.17.2013

I have a wedding to attend this month and instead of wearing one of the dozen dresses made this summer I made a new one.  One might point the finger at Red October, the little #sewcialist idea to make something red in October and post it to the flickr group.  But I don't have to explain myself to you guys. I'm pretty sure you're all shaking your heads saying, "Of course you made a new dress, there was fabric and free time. You had to sew it!"
Pic 3
Taaa Daaaa! A pattern mash up of the Elisalex bodice and Simplicity 2444 skirt.  It's pretty and has pockets! I want to keep you pocket lovers coming back, I'm afraid you're still shaking your heads about the pocket-less Burda jacket.

Soooo anyway, it took me a long time to buy the internet sensation that is the Elisalex dress pattern for a couple of reasons. Let's just dive into them, shall we.

- The company's design aesthetic does not really match mine.
The same can be said of several other companies, so no demerits there. Everyone's taste is different and there are plenty of people out there designing with different aesthetics.  My personal style is kind of amorphous anyway, so I don't expect anyone to design specifically for it.
It's just that sometimes there's an element on a pattern that you dislike to the point that it distracts you from other features you might like. Such is the case with the Elisalex "lantern" skirt...... it's not my bag baby. Probably cause its similar to my natural shape and I have no desire emphasize my larger bottom half when I'm trying to balance it with the top.
So when I first saw this pattern I just though, "this one's for the skinny girls," and closed the tab. It took Dolly Clackett's various mash-ups of the pattern to make me give it a second look. Then I realized that the bodice portion of this design was beautiful and might be interested in purchasing it myself.

- Photos of the garments tend to be "arty" with washed out details or very busy prints.
Pattern companies have to the right to present themselves the way they want and By Hand London's photos aren't even as crazy as some of the shit Vogue puts out. Crouching in windows anyone?  In fact my opinion has always been be as crazy as you want in photos, as long as you give me a technical sketch.  Which leads us to my main problem.....

- No technical sketch for the garments before you buy.
Let be me clear that the pattern comes with a technical sketch on the inside of the sleeve. If you happen to be one of those lucky people with a brick and mortar store stocking these, then you could see it before buying.  However those of us in internet land are up shit creek, because a photo shown of this sketch is never shown.
See perfectly nice technical sketch. I could do with a back view, but this is enough information to make my brain happy.  By Hand London did tweet me a couple of months ago saying that they were going to add it to their website. This hasn't happened yet, but small companies have limited resources so I'm sure it's on a "to do" list that's a mile long. I do appreciate them taking my feedback and responding to it.

However this gives me the perfect opportunity to get up on a soap box and talk about a topic near and dear to my heart... the lowly technical sketch. I've noticed a trend across the internet concerning it lately that troubles me.  More and more it's not included as picture in the on-line buying process or omitted entirely from the pattern. Yes, a technical sketch is not sexy like photos or fancy packaging, but it is essential information that should be included in EVERY design.

I will admit that this is BIG pet peeve of mine because the technical sketch how my brain processes a design.  It allows me to see all the construction details in a format were I am not distracted by fabrication, accessories or even the model. I would also argue that no photograph can clearly show you all of the seams lines on a garment unless it is very simple one. (In this case some stylist has probably accessorized the garment to within an inch of it's life and you need the sketch anyway.)

I will take a technical sketch over fancy packaging or interesting card stock any day.  Because to me the technical sketch is not "window dressing" but an essential source of information that allows me to decide if a pattern is worth my time and effort. The only thing more important to me* then the sketch, is decent drafting of the pattern.
*List of importance should be pattern drafting, instructions, then technical sketch but my priorities are skewed cause I never read directions. How else am I gonna sing "I did it my way?" 

Soapbox rant over, now on to the good stuff

Pattern
Elisalex and Simplicity 2444, original review on the Simplicty part here.
Now for the pros, I do think that there is quality pattern drafting on the Elisalex dress.  Those of us on the upper end of the size range might find the arms too tight, but that's a common problem in grading up to the larger end. Both the front and back neckline are gorgeous and I was very pleased to find that I didn't need to move the princess line seams around to hit my bust apex.
Pic 2
Fabrics used
Mid weight stretch cotton purchased from Gertie's Etsy store this summer.  I had just enough bits of her siri lining laying around to line the bodice.

Pattern changes/alterations
1. I generally like patterns with minimal ease but it can bite you in the ass if you have ...ahem "full" upper arms. (I wanted to say meaty here, but that just makes me think of dinner options) Both the armhole portion of the dress and the sleeve were very snug on my muslin. My fix was to drop the armhole 1/2" and add 1/4" to each side of the sleeve underarm seam for a total of 1/2" additional width.  Since I was working with a stretch woven this seemed to be enough additional ease.
Pic 4

2. Normal 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment.  I also did the forward sleeve adjustment on the cap as discussed in the last blog post.

3.  My bust fullness is low set so I took in the top of the front princess line seams 3/8".
Princess seam
4. Also took in the middle portion of the back princess line seams 3/8" cause it's sway back city in that location.

5. I added 5/8" length to the entire bodice and then an additional 3/8" to just the CF part of the bodice.  I don't have a waist there (thanks post baby gut) so visually it looked better to have that area a tad longer.

6. I took in the bottom of the front princess line seams 1/4" to fit on the Simplicity 2444 skirt.  The two patterns were very similar in size in the waist so only a little minor tweaking was needed. Hooray!
Waist pleats

Confessions/Advice
1. I edge-stitched the neckline and then graded and notched the seam allowance to get the curves to sit nicely.

2. I did not line the skirt portion since I didn't think it needed it and there wasn't enough siri left over anyway.  The lining is slip stitched at the waist and overlocked at the armholes.
Lining

Husband Comment
"Hey that's pretty and it has pockets. Nice."

My Final Thoughts
I really like this dress!  There was a bit of concern about this fabric being a little too thick for something that was not pants or a jacket. Thankfully the simple lines of the two patterns worked just fine with the weight. Now all I have to do is decide what pair of red heels to wear with it!
Pic 5

41 comments:

  1. Firstly - this is awesome. Secondly - I am with you on line drawings. More often than not, especially with the shitty styling on the big 4 envelopes, line drawings are what sell the pattern to me! Finally - WHY HAVE I NEVER DONE THE 2444 SKIRT ON THIS BODICE?!

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  2. My pretty Heather! I love it. and thanks for speaking up about the technical drawings. yes!

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  3. Very nice! Love that red and white print for a wedding. I'm with you on the technical drawings. I always wonder what they're trying to hide if they don't bother.

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  4. Woop, there it is!!! I was waiting for you to blog this one. it's beautiful, Love it! I am one of those who is a fan of the 'lantern' shape of skirt, I think it's very fashion forward and so interesting, but I can certainly see how it's not everybody's cup of tea. And, I am all in for technical drawings. I have 2 science degrees and as much as I LOVE the art and beautiful photos, it is not how my brain processes information when actually getting down to the practicality of it. I wonder if some companies may think that they don't want to give up TOO much information before you purchase because than you can say "oh, that looks similar to Pattern XYZ that I already own, so I'll just use that instead of buying this one". I have absolutely no idea, but figured it could be a reason. I also have stick arms, so thinking this may be the pattern for me!

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  5. Mmm, red! I like it!
    Hurrah for technical drawings! I always check them out as well! It's so important to see how the design is supposed to be put together.

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  6. I will borrow your soapbox when you are finished with it! I ALWAYS look at the technical drawings! So many things are made with dark (esp. black!) fabric, which hides all the seam detail! And I really dislike being influenced by a designer's or stylist's choices. I don't think I've ever bought a pattern without seeing a technical drawing first.


    Love your mashup! The neckline is beautiful on you! =)

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  7. So pretty!! And Amen sista! To the tech drawings!! I despise it when there isn't one to ogle. I'd put it the same place importance-wise.

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  8. Ooo la la! You know I have a deep love affair with 2444, so I was a little heart broken to see you mash it up.... but this mash up is grrreat! Love that neckline, front and back is gorg!!! And that print..well you know.
    Line drawings are a must for me too, one look at the sample garments on the front of 2444 would cause anyone to toss it but the line drawings saved it for me. It wasn't love at first sight at all.

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  9. Oh I love this!!! I wasn't sold on the elisalex skirt either because it's not a shape i usually wear but now I can see how beautiful the bodice pattern is on your dress. This skirt pattern looks great with it and I'm swooning over the red and white fabric

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  10. This is so pretty. I'm with you on not loving the skirt of the Elisalex, but the bodice is gorgeous. And preach it about the technical drawings!

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  11. I love this fabric! This dress is beautiful and you look gorgeous!

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  12. I haven't bought this pattern due to the shape of the skirt so I love how you've changed it up. Why oh why didn't I see this Gertie fabric?? It's gorgeous and you're going to look lovely at the wedding! I love your husband's attention to pockets. And about the technical drawings - you go girl! It's so important to know the details of what you're about to sew.

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  13. I'm also with you on the technical drawings and on the beauteousness of this fabric - and I used to agree on the shape of the Elisalex skirt, but after deciding to give it a go I am won over. I like the way it sticks out from my body, as there is no telling how much of it is full of me - I could be a skinny lass in a poofy skirt for all the world knows!

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  14. I love this so much! Red is a fab colour on you and I remember being jealous of that fabric when you bought it! Totally agree on the need for tech drawings before we buy!

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  15. agree, agree, agree!!! i am definitely interested in BHL, but i think they have some details to tend to before i totally fall in love. regardless, you dress is gorgeous!!! love the fabric, and the fit is divine. nice job!

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  16. Really great dress Heather and I really like this post. I like how you very thoughtfully pointed out your views on including the technical drawing... the reasons you had not bought this pattern (same reason I have not bought it- don't want in any way to emphasize my lower half!), and how you walked us through the changes you made! The bodice IS beautiful and I love the back of it. It makes your neck look gorgeous! (Can I say that?) I also love the print and even more I love that you took the dress pattern and "hacked" it to be one that would flatter you! And you look mahvelous! ~Laurie

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  17. This is a great looking dress! I really love that fabric. Thanks for the reminder about mixing a matching different patterns. Yeah, why not take the top of one pattern and the bottom of another? And excellent point on line drawings. I always look at those too. Lantern shape is not me either - I'm too "hippy" for that. Also, I don't want a skirt to restrict my step when I walk. I prefer swingy skirts.

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  18. This looks fabulous on you! I love the color. I host a weekly linkup for selfish sewing projects, and I would love for you to come join! http://laurendahl.com/sew-selfish-episode-2-and-nothing-to-show/

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  19. Thank you Roisin, I think you should put a 2444 skirt on this bodice pronto!! Also thanks for your two cents on the line drawings.

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  20. Thanks sweetie! I will let you pet the dress if we are in the same state again. ;)

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  21. Hear, Hear Melanie, drawings are certainly a big selling point for me. Even though I have bought a few without them....MOAR patterns!

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  22. Thank you Angela, I completely agree with you about interesting style lines.

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  23. Thank you Meredith, certainly is a lot easier to hide things in photos than in a good old technical drawing.

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  24. Catja, I think you would look fantastic in a lantern skirt! I can picture it with my little gray cells. Do it! Do it!


    PS. I'm guilty of buying patterns that are almost alike. Clearly I have a problem. :)

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  25. Thanks Em! So true, a good drawing can be just as helpful as instructions.

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  26. Yes Brooke! Take my soapbox and expound!!! Pretty sure you would have a bunch of great info to dump into our brains.


    Also thank you about the dress.

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  27. Thank you Katie. Are you also my sewing sister in the instruction area? I did it myyyyy waaaaay!

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  28. Thanks Margo, I promise not to break your heart cause 2444 deserves the best! And yes the 2444 sample garments are a dog's breakfast...blaaaaah.

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  29. Thank you! I certainly think the bodice is a winner, it showcases a busy fabric beautifully.

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  30. Thanks Andrea. Hooray for pretty bodices and technical drawings. We can have both, I tells ya!

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  31. Thank you Laura, you make me blush. Teee heee.

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  32. Thanks Shar. Muhaa haaa haa all the fabric is mine. This one was a one shot roll end instead of yardage so that's why you didn't see it. I'm so tricksy and bought it immediately.

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  33. Thanks Rach. Go you for trying something that was out of your comfort zone and liking it. I do like seeing this skirt on other people.

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  34. Thank you Joanne. I promise to leave some roses for you next time. :)

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  35. Thank you Lisa. I think BHL is making some interesting patterns, but maybe I'm a bit too much of a boring dresser to be a big purchaser of those patterns.

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  36. Thanks so much Laurie! I always feel a little weird when I'm being ranty so I'm glad you like this post. Happy dance on my end. :)

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  37. Thanks Chuleenan, pattern swapping really is fun when it works. I never noticed any "hippness" in your figure so stick with the swingy skirts cause they're working for you. :)

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  38. LOL, Thanks Wendy! I'm so glad I didn't insult the bride by wearing some old dress I made 2 months ago. hee hee. Technical drawings for all!!!

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  39. Thanks so much Lauren, I will certainly linkup on your blog. Lots of lovely project there.

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  40. I don't need no steenkin' instructions! *fistbump*

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  41. I couldn't agree more. No tech spec? No invite to the party in my sewing room. Great dress! :)

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