Sewing with the Pattern Stash - The TNT

3.16.2015

Confession - This outfit was sewn last month before I'd even given any thought to the this month's stash busting theme. It just happens to fit into one of my suggestions of sewing TNT patterns. Errr I mean that I'm soooo good at planning that I keep it secret from myself. But Frog knows...he knows everything.
Before you get ideas of bribing Frog for my dark secrets, let's talk about the two TNT patterns that I used. The first is the Nettie bodysuit, a pattern that gets worn on a weekly basis.  My wardrobe has needed a longer sleeve red version for months and I finally got around to filling that hole. There's nothing new to discuss fit or design wise here. It's the high back/scoop front version with the back and shoulder mods that were detailed in my review of the pattern.  It was also sewn in the same Lillestoff red jersey. It turned out to be exceedingly hard to find bright red cotton jersey in the middle winter.
TNT two is a little bit more fun to talk about. See I bought this Micheal Miller print, "Out to sea," last year after loving it on both Roisin and Jo. There were no exact pattern plans for it at the time, I just snagged 3 yards from Hart's fabric and stashed it. Then last month I stumbled across a lady on Instagram that was wearing a circle skirt in this exact fabric. Yes, Yes!!! That is precisely what my fabric wanted to be.

However a straight circle skirt pattern wouldn't do because of the 45" width of the fabric and the horizontal pattern motif.  I did a bit of brain storming and decided the best way to solve the problem was to use a gored skirt pattern and increase the amount of sweep to the pieces.  So I grabbed the skirt portion of the Odette dress and New Look 6056 to use for my experiment. Thanks to photographer Frog it's also been documented for you. He wears many hats and all of them at a jaunty angle.
I really like the hem sweep on New Look 6056 and wanted to add the same amount to the Odette skirt.  Before beginning the drafting, both pattern's hem lines were measured to find out the difference between them.  I found that NL 6056 hem sweep was 14.5" bigger on the half.  That meant 7.25" needed to be added to each of the Odette panels to get the same sweep. Here's how you go about doing it.

Step 1. Trace the CF panel of the the Odette skirt.

Step 2. From the hem area of the skirt measure out 7.25" and mark. I usually line the ruler up with the angle of the existing hem for now. We'll edit that later.

Step 3.  Draw in a new edge to the pattern. (Since I already have a waistband drafted for Odette the new seam was started 5/8" down from the waist edge. That way the waist circumference is not increased.)

Step 4. Next draw in the seam allowance.

Step 5. Place the Side Front pattern on top of the stitch line and mark were the bottom of the pattern falls.

Step 6. Adjust the hem sweep curve so that two pattern pieces will have the same seam length. If you have a hip curve ruler use that. You can also fudge it with a french curve.


Step 7. Trace the side front pattern piece.

Step 8. Add the 7.25" to the non side seam side edge. (The side seam has two notches for pocket placement if you get confused.)

Step 9. Draw in the new pattern edge and seam allowance.

Step 10. Place the already modified center front on top and use it to adjust the hem sweep curve like before. (Also double check that you have a seam notch that matches between the two pieces for assembly.)



Step 11. Repeat these steps to the Center Back and Side Back pieces. After you are done altering all the pieces the skirt can be sew together in the same manner as outlined in the Odette directions. Bonus you'll have pockets if using the pattern.

With the added sweep the seam lines disappear into the folds and you get the look of a circle skirt.  I was just able to squeeze out the size 12 skirt on 3 yards of fabric. The boats aren't exactly matched across the CB, but there was literally no more fabric to tweak that. Slightly irksome, but at least I can't see my backside when wearing it. ;)
So there we go, two TNT's and a little hack to start out the week.  Spring is in the air and it's going to be pretty dress sewing season soon. Can't wait!

20 comments:

  1. Anything nautical is love at first sight for me! Loving your style lady :)

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  2. I love this whole outfit but the boats are the icing on the cake. You are so pretty in red! Thanks for sharing how you made the skirt!! Froggie is such a great helper!

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  3. As usual, stinkin' cute, Heather!

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  4. Lovely! The nautical fabric (I have 3 yards too, no plans yet but being some kind of dress) is perfect with the red bodysuit. You've found the perfect match.

    Thank you very much for sharing the skirt tips!

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  5. So perfect!
    Thank you for those skirt tips. These long swinging skirts are so fun to wear, even if they take so much more fabric then the pencil skirts.

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  6. This whole look is ridiculously adorable.

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  7. Gorgeous styling! What a great outfit! Way to use what you've already got and adapt it to what you want.

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  8. Love your skirt and the whole outfit! I have long admired Jo's dress with these ships. Your skirt is not helping me resist the siren call of this fabric! Must...not...search internet....

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  9. Aww thanks Rachel. There's just something fun about nautical prints isn't there.

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  10. Smooches Heather. Starting to think that I need even more red in my closet. All the REDS! :)

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  11. Thank you Maris. Froggie taught me everything I know about being cute.

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  12. Thanks Mayumi. My original plan for that fabric was an Emery dress. But it will look cute in any pattern you end up using. :)

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  13. Thanks Becki. I've been fully convinced of the fun in wearing full skirts. They're also good for the end of month stash busting tally.

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  14. Froggie broke out the cute stick and beat me with it a few times before we took blog photos. ;)

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  15. Thank you Brooke, Now go buy some cotton, you know you want tooooo.

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  16. Sometimes the internet works to your advantage. Though must of the time it just makes you buy more fabric/patterns. ;)

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  17. The best kind of ships that pass in the night!

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  18. Yup you are a pattern genuis.... I'm afraid that I kinda glazed over when I tried to understand how you made this skirt.. I'll try again when I'm not so tired. Who am I kidding? I just opened to post and thought "OOOooooo so pretty!" You look smashing in red Heather! Great skirt!

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  19. I'll unfurl the leopard print sail for you.

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  20. Don't worry, I'll send Froggie over to do your pattern mods. He'll be happy to assist. :)

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