Speaking of Stash Layers

Last week's blog post was really supposed to be this one, but Professor Froggie's helpful teaching aid spun me off on a "scientific" tangent.  I think that was for the best.

Lately I've been pondering over my inability to sew the "orange layers" of fabric in my stash and what to do about it. My sewing records clearly show that with the exception of Butterick 5824,  I've been sewing exclusively from layers 1 and 2 this year. I'm not surprised by this since I'm a "non-planner/SQUIRREL!" type of sewer.  The new shiny thing is usually going to draw my focus and become the next project.

This is all well and good except there are some older pieces of fabric that I'd actually like to wear. How do I trick myself into sewing those things up with it becoming a chore? Here are the possibilities I'm currently mulling.

1. Have an older stash only month of sewing.
Pros - a clear time frame might help me focus on using this fabric.
Cons - Potentially sew-jo killing if I decide that sewing old fabric sucks.

2. Make a rule that after sewing 2 projects from new fabric, I must sew 1 from old fabric.
Pros - Mixing in some newer fabrics may keep the sew-jo flowing.
Cons - Keeping track of numbers of projects is quickly going to get on my nerves. I can see myself just abandoning the system after a bit.

3. Plan a wardrobe capsule that incorporates old and new fabric.
Pros - I do like thinking up outfits and mixing stash layers might make the process more exciting.
Cons - This might be "too much planning" for a non-planner.

These are the times that I wish my personality was one who liked to follow plans! Oh well, let's just blame my parents for that and my love of carbs. (I say that knowing my own offspring can blame me for the same things.)

 Right now the wardrobe capsule sounds the most fun. I've been thinking of adding more green to my wardrobe and the deep stash has several fabrics that would work for this. Don't hold your breath though about seeing blog updates about this. SQUIRREL! ;) What I really need is a monthly general sewing theme that exactly matches my taste and old stash. Not a tall order or anything. I'm sure some minions are working on it right now. *Snort* It just so happened that all the stars did align in April by providing me with the Stashbusting Sew-a-long theme of Vibrant Color. YES! Take your pastels and shove'em where the sun don't shine. Let's get out some fabric that sear your eyeballs.

OK fine, these fabrics don't sear your eyeballs, just make them tingle a bit. Oooo minty! Both these fabrics were from Layer four labeled "Aborted plans and remnants" by our favorite sewing frog.  The top is Liberty London Lawn and was supposed to be a Scout tee. The skirt is some stretch sateen that was left over from making a Beignet. They must have been conspiring because one day they fell out of the stash cave together and I realized the colors coordinated. Yes I will make wardrobe decisions based on gravity!  That and frogs on pieces of fabric. "Sew me, rib-bit!"

Since they were both small pieces of fabric I went with my low yardage favorites, Edith and Betsy. You've seen these patterns on the blog several times so I won't bore you with repeating details, just click here if you want them. So now the 4 layer is two pieces of fabric thinner and I have a new outfit with matching shoes. If only sewing the rest of the deep stash could be so easy.

How about you guys? Do you have any tricks that get you sewing the deep stash. Tell me all about them over some cake. :)

The Frankenpattern Shirtdress

Oh hello, didn't see you there because I was getting all "Mommie Dearest" on Desmond. "No wire coat hangers IN THIS HOUSE!" These sort of things happen when you put on your spike heels and a giant rhinestone brooch. Fear my florals, folks.

If it had not been for the tsunami of germs this month, than I probably would have blogged about plans for the PR Frankenpattern contest. You know, before the project was actually done. Oh well, let's do a quick flashback to bring everyone up to speed. *Cue star wipe*

Picking a project for the Frankenpattern contest was a bit difficult. For one my brain went blank when it came to Frankenpatterning on a deadline.  The little gray cells went, "Pffft, we do what we want and right now that's marathoning two seasons of Mr. Selfridge. Suck it chump."  In addition the no drafting rule part of the contest kind of tied my hands. But, but, but, what if I need to tweak stuff?  I gots to tweak!!!  Between those two things I still didn't have a project sorted out by the time the contest started. Crap, better scour the internet for inspiration.

Burda came through for me with this plus sized dress pattern. Hey pretty lady.

Under different circumstances I would have bought the burda pattern and graded it down to fit me.  But who really want to do that, am I right? Of to the pattern stash I went to rifle around for something similar. What's this I see? McCall's 4769(OOP) and Bluegingerdoll Betsy have similar lines and all I'd have to do is join them at the waist. Perfect! Now you two jump in that shoe box and make me a franken baby.

Haa haaa, I wish that you could throw two patterns in a box and have them magically morph together. "Wonder twins powers activate - shape of a bitchen shirtdress!" Would really save on tape.

I used view E with the 3/4 length cuffed sleeves for the top half of the garment. Those of you with technical drawings in front of you might notice that I did make a pattern tweak. Scandalous! Yup, I removed the button band and extended the front edge of the bodice for the buttons. Figured contest mangers aren't eligible for prizes, so why not make the garment the way I wanted. Do as I say, not as I do. *wink, wink*

I've already make the View A of Betsy numerous times, so the plan was to fit the McCall's bodice to the skirt waistband. First step, grade down the bodice cause size 14 isn't in the larger size nest. Oops. Here I was all smug about not having to grade down a pattern. After that process was complete I added mostly standard fitting adjustments. Here's a list of all the things done to the pattern.
- Dropped the side seam dart 1" and shortened the waist dart by 1".
- 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment on the shoulder and the sleeve cap.
- Dropped the sleeve cap 1/2" and I also flattened the front of the sleeve a bit more. There seemed to be more ease in that location.
- Cut 5/8" of length off the collar. I may have made an grading error which caused the collar to be too long. Didn't feel like investigating it.
- Sway back adjustment of 1/4".
- Increased the back dart intake by 3/8".
- Extended the CF by 1 1/2" to replace the button band.
- Added a side seam zipper on the left side so the dress could be gotten on/off.

Increasing the size of the back darts made the back half of the blouse fit to the skirt. On the front I just overlapped the center fronts until the side seams matched up. The overlap ended up being 1" which was the perfect amount for the 5/8" buttons. It's nice when things work out when you're really just winging it.

The dress is made out of yet another stashed Ascher Studio print cotton. I stashed a lot last summer and it's a good thing to since no one seemed to stock new prints this year.  Come on Ascher Studio, I need more vintage feeling large scale flora prints. They complete me.  Anyway this cotton has zero stretch which does make getting the dress off and on "interesting." A little bit of shimming is involved, but I did leave myself enough ease so that no seams are in danger. Aside from that, I think this fabric complements the design perfectly.

Overall I'm pretty pleased with this mash up, but there are two things I would change. Number one, the bust area and back seem a little blousey.

It's not horrible and one doesn't want to remove so much ease that their woven garment becomes uncomfortable. Still it seems a touch bigger than my usual fit.

Number 2, forgot to move the waist/back darts a bit so that they matched up with one of the Betsy darts. Guess my quality assurance Frog was asleep on the job about that one. *cough, passing the buck, cough*

So there you go, another frankpattern creation released into the wild. I'm available to berate children/coworkers/significant others in my floral power shirtdress. Just call and make an appointment with Froggie. I promise to show up looking stern and commanding and not like this.

Fredrick invites Edith and Betsy on a lunch date

Hmmm sounds like an alternate reality "Archie" comic involving lobsters. But why lobsters Heather? Well because anthropomorphic lobsters are adorable and this outfit wouldn't have come about without one. I'm speaking of Fredrick my Luxulite brooch of course.

"Hello beautiful ladies. Yes, my body is red like I have been cooked and yet I still cling to life. Let us talk no more of this complicated set of circumstances."

I was smitten with Fredrick's googly eyes and possible tragic back story. How can I fix you and make you smile again gentle lobster? Regular outings to the grocery store to look at the lobster tank? Nautical themed shoes? I'm sure Dolly Clackett has some to spare.  A warm butter bath? Name it and it will be yours. Fredrick thought a moment and said, "The frog has informed me that you have lobster fabric in your stash. I would like to frolic on it and relive my carefree youth." Why dear Fred, I can do one better than that, I can make a lobster shirt. *Queue 80's sewing montage ending with me in front of a fence shouting TA DA!*

Wooo look at that, I "almost" make a googly eyed lobster shirt look classy.  The secret is the toe point.

It came to my attention that my wardrobe was lacking any sort of button down shirt in my current size. What? How could this have happened? Am I not the the self crowned "Queen of Archers"? This state of affairs had to rectified and fast least my button hole attachment decide to runway from home.

A couple patterns were considered, but I found myself in a retro mood and pulled out Maria Denmark's Edith pattern. The more fitted body seemed a better match to go with the stretch denim Betsy skirt I'd just finished. What's better than lobsters and denim? Pie and chiffon?  Cake and Corduroy? Wait let's not go down that road. It's making me hungry.

LOBSTERS, MAINE!

Some of you might remember that I made Edith last year around this time. Having to retrace the pattern was a bummer, but at least most of the fitting work could be transferred to the B 40 size.

Like last year I needed to....
1. Drop the bust dart an inch".
2. Shorten the tip of the front fish eye dart 3".
3. Take 1/2" off the top of the shoulder seams which was graded out to nothing at the collar. Then I dropped the bottom of the armholes 1".
4. Made standard 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment.
5. Curved the hem line up at the side seams for personal preferences.
6. Widened the facing about 5/8" after rereading my previous review about it being a bit narrow.

*I did not need to add ease to the hips on this size.  The top was short enough that it does not reach my wider 40" circumference area.

Once again I bias bound the armhole edges instead of turning and hemming.  As much as I hate sewing bias bindings, they do look nice once they are finished.

Some lobsters were traumatized by the sewing of this blouse.

Last year I wore Edith with Clover capris, but decided it looks equally well tucked into a Betsy pencil skirt. And I might not have sewn any Clover capris. Yes I am avoiding pants at all costs for as long as possible.

Someone tell past Heather to tuck in her shirt.

This Betsy is a combo of view's A and C.  Instead of tracing the regular vent on view A, I moved the paper over to view C and traced the pleated vent. Easy Peasy. Now a girl can have a pleated vent and a waistband. Natch. Don't know why it took me a couple of months to sew another denim pencil skirt. They go with about half of my wardrobe and I find them very comfortable in stretch denim.

Show us the money shot!

Fredrick was delighted with the blouse made in his honor.  I think a tiny tear of joy welled up in his googly eye.  Then he said, "Hey baby, let's go paint the town red like my skin." We hit all the hot spots, the grocery store, JoAnn's and of course Target.  People started at us with delight...or confusion/horror. I like to think that they were just jealous of our love and our sweet dance moves to Rock Lobster out in the parking lot. My Fred Schneider impression is tight.


P.S. You know Gillian, our favorite sewicalist of rainbow knits. She's moved her blog to wordpress and wanted to get the word out since no one using blogloving would know. So go refollow Gillian cause she knows how to wrap up a blog post unlike some people. *cough, me, cough*