Leopard Party Bellatrix Blazer

1.27.2014

It seems fitting to round out Jungle January with a party....a leopard print party to be exact.
Leopard 1
My outer leopard shell is muted and business like, but my inner leopard skin is all "Hello and MEOW!"
Leopard 5
But let's back up and talk about the Bellatrix pattern for a moment.  When Papercut Patterns released their Constellation collection I practically foamed at the mouth upon seeing this blazer.  I've got a fever for blazers and the only prescription is more blazers!!! At least that's what Dr. Frog tells me.

I swear on Dr. Frog's fake medical degree that I was going to sew this pattern up immediately. But that pesky Christmas/germ tsunami totally took the wind out of my sales.  My forlorn Bellatrix muslin stared at me sadly from the corner for weeks. "Why won't you sew me? I thought we were in luv."  Poor blazer, I couldn't let it go on pining for another month. Instead I got my shit together and decided to pull out ALL the leopard print.  Bellatrix Blazer, you will be a magnificent beast! *Cue "Bungle in the Jungle*
Outside pocket detail
The main fabric is a stretch cotton twill picked up from Marcy Tilton last year. Most of the pattern pieces need to be fused, so the stretch factor is moot in the finished garment. Speaking of fuse, I used my favorite "Pro Weft" for the majority of the jacket.   For the extra collar fuse, sleeve facings and welts, I swapped in a different product from Pam, "Pro woven crisp".  I found that pro woven crisp takes a lot more work to fuse completely. You really have to wet it down, put a press cloth on top and just lay the iron on it for a minute. Worth the effort cause I like the way it looks in the blazer.

For the finishing touch I did pull out more of my leopard lining stash. Pretty sure it goes with everything.
Lining shot
Pattern
Papercut Pattern's Bellatrix Blazer

Fabrics used
Self - Stashed Stretch leopard cotton twill
Lining - Stashed Leopard lining
Interfacing - Stashed Fashion Sewing Supply Pro weft, with some Pro woven crisp in the collar/sleeve facings and welts.
Button - a freebie from some past Waecter's order
All Stash Project - collect your bonus internet points! Cha-ching.button

Pattern changes/alterations
1. I had to do a giant forward shoulder adjustment on this pattern 1 1/4". The corresponding change to the sleeve cap makes for one funky looking pattern.
2. Normal 1/2" upper back width increase with added shoulder dart.
3. Sway back adjustment of 3/4".
Leopard 4
4. Added 3/8" to the side seams to increase the hem sweep.

Confessions/Advice
- I think this pattern is drafted very slim through the hips or maybe just with flat butts in mind.  My muslin was made back in December using a blend of sizes M and L, which should have fit my hips.  I found the waist and hip area both way too small and put the muslin away for awhile.  This month I'm 10 lbs down and have lost several inches from both of these areas.  I still found the hip area too small and added more ease the hem area. I would advise anyone that carries their weight in the hips/butt area to size up on the lower half, especially if you want to wear this blazer over pants.

- I decided to bag the lining instead of following the directions.  Then discovered that it's impossible to under-stitch the bottom of the blazer from a gap in the armhole lining.  Solution - open up the lining side seam as instructed, under-stitch, then turn the jacket inside out again and stitch up the side seam.  Then you can turn the blazer right side out through the armhole gap and machine sew that closed.  No hand sewing makes Heather a happy girl.

Husband Comment
"That looks nice and it has real pockets that work." *Shoves his hands in the pockets to check that his eyes aren't deceiving him.*
Leopard 3
My Final Thoughts 
The construction of this blazer was different from most that I've previously sewed.  I did find that enjoyable and think it would be a good pattern for those not experienced with sewing blazers. The fusing does take a fair bit of work at the beginning. However this step gives the finished blazer a crisp professional look, so don't skip it.  The inseam welt pockets are super easy to sew. Can all my welt pockets be inseam from now on?
More pockets
Beep Beep Beep!  Oh no, it's the stash-o-meter! It seems my leopard print stash levels are now dangerously low. Frog take a note - Schedule trip to Katie's house to steal more leopard print before next Jungle January. We have to be prepared for more Jungle parties.

- I'm going to do the scarf drawing next post, so you'll have to bite your fingernails for now.

48 comments:

  1. I've loved watching this progress on IG but the finished item is even better than I'd imagined it to be! I adore it. Every version I see is pushing it further up the list. I really should sew those other things I've already got cut out though!

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  2. This is a total triumph! You make it look so easy, Heather!

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  3. Great job on the blazer! It looks sleek and stylin'. Your husband comment was so funny :) Congrats on the weight loss, and thanks for the tip on the hips!

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  4. Gorgeous! How I wish I could say the same about my jacket aka the fiasco of my month.

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  5. It's so cute, love it - It's making me want to sew a blazer Heather!! When the blazes would I wear it though?? Well done on the weight loss you are lookin swell ;)

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  6. Wowzaa! Love this blazer, Heather.

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  7. Duuuuuuuuuuuuuuuude! This thing is FANTASTIC! I kind of want to set fire to my sad black Bellatrix... but only after I've yanked your leopardy one right out of your house! Also, "leopard lining stash"... this is something I need. You look cool as sh*t and this blazer rocks!!!

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  8. I love the double leopard! This pattern just looks incredible on you, too.

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  9. Looks fabulous. Thanks for reminding me to not skip all the interfacing/fusing... Love the double leopard!

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  10. Your blazer is amazing, I love the leopard lining!

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  11. That is one beautiful blazer! I might have to come over to YOUR house for a little thievery!

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  12. Like VickiKate I was stalking (I mean watching) this on IG. This looks great on you! I love that you used leopard for the main fabric and lining. I've only made the Cordova so I definitely need more blazers and this is great one. BTW, you look awesome - congrats on the weight loss!

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  13. You are truly a blazer maniac! Love this one! (Wait! I think I like them all, but today this one especially!)

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  14. Thank you VickiKate, I agree with you about all versions of this pattern being pretty darn awesome. Now you just need those pesky pre-cut sewing projects to sew themselves.

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  15. High Five lulumiss about leopard being the new neutral. I can get behind that.

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  16. Thanks Charity Shop Chic, I gonna give some props to the Papercut for making this an easy jacket to sew.

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  17. Thanks so much Kristin, my husband really is a fan of pockets. I might be a pocket nazi. ;)

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  18. Ugh K-Line, I'm sorry your jacket was not so cooperative, Time for a fun pattern to cleanse your palette.

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  19. Thanks Maeve, I should confess that I don't wear my blazers much cause it's either too hot or too cold. But they are so fun to make that I can't stop.

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  20. Thank you Margo. :)

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  21. Noooo don't set fire to your black one! I was thinking about making a black one actually, goes with everything is a good thing. Do you like brown leopard print cause I have some lining you can have to start your stash.

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  22. Thank you Morgan, double your leopard, double your fun? LOL

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  23. Thank you Em, I need to remember not to skip the interfacing on things that are not collars and cuff. I'm bad about interfacing armholes and such.

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  24. Thank you MarrieB, I'll cry when that leopard lining is all gone.

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  25. Haaa haaa Gail! I must put the blazer in my secret wall safe now. Maybe I should change the combination from 12345. ;)

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  26. Thank you Shar. I feel like giving you a sewing dare to sew more blazers but I'll behave myself.

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  27. Thanks Maris, I'll need to come up with something really cool next to make that one your favorite. :)

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  28. Good enough reason, I should just make one you know to have in case......

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  29. The blazer is awesome! And as I have read several times on different blogs Leopard is a neutral! I think I need a dr. Frog in my life to give me good advice too...

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  30. Thank you Wendy. :) I will tell Dr. Frog he should open up a practice.

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  31. Behaving is no fun! Hmmm, I love a challenge. Would fabric suggestions be made? Is the timeframe unlimited? Is this too many questions?

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  32. This is a really great looking jacket. They style looks great on you, and the fabric is so fun!

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  33. this is such a great blazer pattern, and yours does NOT dissappoint! love all the animal print!

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  34. I'm sort of running out of adjectives to describe your makes. Leopard with secret leopard? Rawr.

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  35. Love the peek of lining in the pockets picture!! Turned out really nice. I enjoy blazers with pretty linings. Then I have a reason to flash people, hee hee hee.

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  36. To keep it fun I would give you an unlimited time frame and what ever fabric you want. Unless you want a suggestion. :)

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  37. Thank you Laura, I still want a flora blazer thanks to modcloth. Cheeky monkeys.

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  38. Thanks Lisa. Two big thumbs up for this pattern, it really is great.

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  39. Sorry Andrea, I've used too much leopard print for your adjective list. I will rawr back through. RAWWWWR!

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  40. Look at my blazer insides people!!!! I might do that same. ;)

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  41. Challenge accepted! Fabric selection is one of the hardest things for me so any suggestions are welcome. You have such an eye for fabric too! I have some Jamie Jeans to sew first and the blazer will be right behind.

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  42. Yessss! There it is, I've been watching it's progress unfold via Twitter and IG. It's absolutely stunning, what a terrific job you did! Love that you made it in animal print as well, more fun!

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  43. This blazer is so great, I don't even know where to begin: the fabric (inside and out), the shape, the details - just glorious. Thanks for the tip about the narrow hips. I actually own this pattern so if I ever get around to making it I shall keep that in mind.

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  44. I love your blazer. I too had to wrestle with my muslin to get the fit I wanted, but I was on the verge of moving on to something else. It really helped that others were making at the same time, so thanks for the inspiration to push through. I want one with leopard print now :-)

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  45. Thank you Catja, I'm glad you like it after all the in process shots. :)

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  46. Thanks Andrea, You'd look great in this blazer too. Put it on your sewing list for the year. (Gives you plenty of wiggle room then.)

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  47. Oh sweet, I'm glad you stuck with the pattern cause I just love what I saw on IG. Will be slobbering over a future blog post of yours too.

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  48. I have finally put on my big-girl pants and started on this. I made 2 muslins (which is a first, I usually don't even bother) and now realize that I have to do a forward shoulder adjustment, which is an absolute first for me... I found your tutorial on how to do this, and everything looks pretty straightforward, except I have no idea how to do this on this jacket, mainly the front pieces with the back collar attached. What do I do with those?

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